build and use a leakdown tester (2024)

phragle

Member
Feb 7, 2009
2,035
93
84
Godfather to the blaster family
  • Feb 9, 2009
  • #1

this should be used ANYtime you remove or redo the top end or whole motor or if you are having jetting issues.

Step 1. take your carb or intake boot to homedepot, lowes etc. and head for the PVC fitting isle, and find an end cap with a threaded hole about the right size so that it can be stuffed into the intake and clamped down.

Step 2. go to the air fitting dept and get a brass T, a schrader valve (tire valve) and a low pressure guage 10~20 psi, and 2 barbed fittings, one that fits the 'T' and one that fits the pvc. you may meed a reducer or two. if you are having trouble figureing it out, the guy at the store can hook you up. assemble the pieces into something resembeling the picture. to seal the exhaust port, get a piece of sheet metal, aluminum etc., cut it out about the size of the exhaust manifold, maybe a little bigger, measure the distance between the exhaust studs and drill 2 holes. take some rubber (like an old innertube) and cut out a piece to use as a gasket between the piece of metal and the cylinder.

Step3. pull the exhause manifold off and use it to sandwhich the rubber abd mettal and tighten it up, and install your contraption in the intake boot.

step 4. use a bicycle pump (not the aircompressor!) to pressurize the motor to 7psi and wait 5 minutes. If the airpressure goes down more than 1 psi or so you have an air leak. take an old windex type squirt bottle and put some dish soap and water in it and start squirting the motor, head gasket, base gasket, intake gasket.. and look fo bubbles. if you find bubbles you found your leak. if no bubbles, squirt the seam all the way around where the case halves come together. if still no leaks start taking things apart and checking the main bearing seals. simple.

build and use a leakdown tester (2)

build and use a leakdown tester (3)

build and use a leakdown tester (4)

build and use a leakdown tester (5)

build and use a leakdown tester (6)

  • build and use a leakdown tester (7)

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M

mr_3_0_5

Member
Nov 21, 2008
4,630
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90
43
in a small quiet town
  • Feb 9, 2009
  • #2

great post.. only thing id do if i were you is offer these for sale..lol

phragle

Member
Feb 7, 2009
2,035
93
84
Godfather to the blaster family
  • Feb 9, 2009
  • #3

it's only about $15 worth of parts at home depot build and use a leakdown tester (9)

M

mr_3_0_5

Member
Nov 21, 2008
4,630
55
90
43
in a small quiet town
  • Feb 9, 2009
  • #4

correct.. but for convinence issue's the nearest home depot to me is about 45 min away..

89custom

Member
May 27, 2008
3,839
39
90
GTA, Ontario
  • Feb 9, 2009
  • #6

awsome man. another thanks.

your becoming an awsome help to this forum quickly, dude.

tjsdaname

Member
Oct 17, 2007
3,474
27
85
30
IA
  • Feb 9, 2009
  • #7

here is a dumb question for you
you do this when the top-end is still connected to the bottom end right????

blasterfreek30

Member
Jan 27, 2008
9,634
129
94
north nj
  • Feb 9, 2009
  • #8

tjsdaname said:

here is a dumb question for you
you do this when the top-end is still connected to the bottom end right????

yes, i was gonna say that before i stickied it

phragle

Member
Feb 7, 2009
2,035
93
84
Godfather to the blaster family
  • Feb 9, 2009
  • #9

yep, with everything assembled.

  • build and use a leakdown tester (15)

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Geoffrey and peacher213

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mr_3_0_5

Member
Nov 21, 2008
4,630
55
90
43
in a small quiet town
  • Feb 9, 2009
  • #10

i gave you some rep points

N

newnick

New Member
Jan 21, 2008
233
4
0
Port Neches,Tx.
  • Feb 9, 2009
  • #11

Some hardware stores sell a leakdown setup for plumbers, it has the gauge and a shrader valve on it, all you need to do is add the pvc fitting that fits the intake.
The one pictured here would fit into tighter places better though and might be a little less expensive.

yamahaman126

New Member
Mar 20, 2009
460
18
23
Indiana
  • Nov 8, 2009
  • #12

Here is the one I just made for $20 at Menards.

build and use a leakdown tester (17)

It has a 0 -100 psi, but I'm going to change it out with a gauge I already had at the house. I just liked the way the gauge, valve and housing was put together.

stephen12091985

New Member
Jan 1, 2009
4,233
22
0
(321)titusville,florida
  • Dec 6, 2009
  • #13

so how do you use these?i see you put it in the intake boot then what?do you kick the engine over or hook up an air compressor?

stephen12091985

New Member
Jan 1, 2009
4,233
22
0
(321)titusville,florida
  • Dec 6, 2009
  • #14

never mind i found out how

D

DirtDiggler

DUNEFREEK
Nov 24, 2009
2,286
27
84
50
Tacoma , Wa
  • Jan 1, 2010
  • #15

an alternative to using the rubber sandwiched over the exhaust port , you can get a plumbers plug , with a few twists it expands and seals up round openings , its just a rubber expansion plug , won't damage fittings either .

brandoz28

Member
Sep 24, 2009
10,767
96
53
Iowa
  • Apr 29, 2010
  • #16

back up to the top with this, lots of guys having engine problems lately

sticky maybe?

T

TopTechKid27

New Member
Mar 5, 2009
315
2
0
34
St.Louis MO
  • Apr 29, 2010
  • #17

great DIY! i will say tho is in school i was always taught to use static pressure not positive pressure other wise you run the risk of blowing seals out even tho its unlikely.

stephen12091985

New Member
Jan 1, 2009
4,233
22
0
(321)titusville,florida
  • Apr 29, 2010
  • #18

i will add to this:

ur vent line to the crankcase has to be pluged

phragle

Member
Feb 7, 2009
2,035
93
84
Godfather to the blaster family
  • Apr 29, 2010
  • #19

stephen12091985 said:

i will add to this:

ur vent line to the crankcase has to be pluged

No it doesn't. the crankcase vent goes to the tranny which is completely seperate. having it plugged or not makes no difference, however not plugging it you can spray it to check for bubbles, which would mean the sealent between the case halves is leaking pressure into the transmission.

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slickerthanyou

phragle

Member
Feb 7, 2009
2,035
93
84
Godfather to the blaster family
  • Apr 29, 2010
  • #20

TopTechKid27 said:

great DIY! i will say tho is in school i was always taught to use static pressure not positive pressure other wise you run the risk of blowing seals out even tho its unlikely.

Static pressure I assume would be ambient/atmospheric pressure, in which case you would not be able to read and kind of pressure or change. So yuo need positive pressure but only about 7 pounds or so. If you hit it with a standard home aircompressor, 120 psi will blow the seals into next week though....

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build and use a leakdown tester (2024)

FAQs

What are the good numbers on a leak-down test? ›

No engine will have perfect sealing with 0 percent loss. Five to 10 percent loss indicates an engine in great to good running order. An engine between 10 and 20 percent can still run OK, but it'll be time to keep an eye (or ear) on things. Above 20 percent loss and it may be time for a teardown and rebuild.

How much leakdown is ok? ›

For normally aspirated engines, 5 to 10 percent loss indicates the engine in great condition. If an engine reads between 15-20 percent, it's not a reason for condemning the engine – but be more concerned about where the leakage is occurring. And at 30 percent, there are some major problems and an overhaul is likely.

How do you calculate leak down? ›

The concept is simple. Pump air at a known pressure into a top-dead-center combustion chamber, then measure how much pressure the chamber holds. The difference in readings gives you the percentage leak-down.

How do you calculate leak test? ›

How to Calculate Leak Rate (SCCM) A leak rate is expressed as a volume per unit of time. The rate is found by measuring the change in pressure multiplied by the volume. That number is then divided by the change in time multiplied by the surrounding atmospheric pressure to calculate the leak rate (SCCM).

Is 20% leak down bad? ›

Cylinder Leak Down Test Results

So if you test an engine and see leakage numbers even in the 15 to 20 percent range, this is not cause for alarm. Much of your concern around an engine that needs freshening should revolve around exactly where the leakage originates.

What is a normal leakage value reading? ›

Heating appliances should have a current that should be less than 0.75 milliamps per Kilowatt up to a max of 5 milliamps. Portable/handheld appliances have to have earth leakage current of less than 0.75mA to be considered safe.

How much compression loss is acceptable? ›

Again, a good rule of thumb is no more than 10 percent variation between any of the cylinders.

Is a leak down test better than a compression test? ›

A leak-down tester may represent a larger initial investment, and a leak-down test takes more time to perform, but it can give you a more accurate and detailed picture of the engine's overall health.

How much air pressure do I need for a leak test? ›

Method to perform a leak test by placing the work in a chamber, applying a minute amount of pressure inside the chamber, applying test pressure inside the work and comparing the pressure change due to leak from the work to chamber with that of the master work.

What is the limit for a leak test? ›

The leak test pressure limit for leak tests typically uses low pressure. Most codes for leak test pressure limits call for the pressure to be at least 15 psi or 25% of the design pressure (whichever pressure is less).

What pressure is a leak down test? ›

The input pressure is set for 80 psi (550 kPa), and 60 psi (410 kPa) minimum cylinder pressure is the accepted standard. While the leak-down tester pressurizes the cylinder, the mechanic can listen to various parts to determine where any leak may originate.

What is the allowable pressure drop in a leak test? ›

Test results shall be acceptable if there is no visible leakage during the hold period. Pressure shall not vary from the test pressure at the start of the test by more than 5 % or 500 psi (3.45 MPa), whichever is less, during the entire hold period, and shall not drop below the test pressure.

What is the acceptable helium leak rate? ›

A leak rate of 10-12 mbar · l/s corresponds to hole diameter of 1 Å; this is the lower detection limit for modern helium leak detectors.

What is the proper way to test the air leakage rate? ›

Test air leakage rate:

With a fully-charged air system (typically 125 psi), turn off the engine, release the parking brake, and time the air pressure drop. The loss rate should be less than 2 psi in 1 minute for single vehicles and less than 3 psi in 1 minute for combination vehicles.

What PSI should a leak-down test be? ›

There are also single-gauge leak down testers. These gauges require you to zero the gauge with reference air (usually at 80 psi or below) before connecting the output line to the cylinder. Zero the gauge with the regulator. Once connected to the cylinder, the gauge will read out the actual cylinder leak rate.

How do you perform a duct leak test? ›

At a local home improvement store, a smoke pencil should only cost around $30 and is a great way to know how to check air ducts for leaks. Using the device, slowly move it over your ductwork to see if there are any movements inside of your ductwork.

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